How I Do Machine Applique

First of all, let me put it right out there that I am not an expert on this subject by any means.  I am learning as I go, and I am loving how fun machine applique is.   Several of you have emailed me to ask what technique I use, so I thought I would do a post on my methods.

There are dozens of ways to do machine applique, all which give good results.  This is just the way I happen to do it and so far so good as far as I am concerned.

A product that is so essential, I doubt I'd get good results without, is Seam A Seam 2.  It comes in sheets, but I find it more economical to buy it by the roll.

It comes with helpful instructions in three languages, telling you how to use it.  A picture is worth a thousand words, so here goes.

Basically, the stuff is a fusible interfacing that has paper on two sides.  One side of the paper comes off without hardly trying.  I am lifting that layer up in the photo above.  The layer on the bottom is the sticky iron on interfacing and another more secure layer of paper.

You want to trace your applique design *on the paper that is adhering most securely*.  You can also use a plastic template if you prefer.  Trace the design on the template, cut it out and trace around it on the top of the Seam A Seam 2.

I am using a Sharpie pen to trace my design.  The thing about applique is (and you will realize this at some point once you are into it), sometimes you need to reverse the design.  I don't know what to tell you about this, except to keep your wits about you.  If you want your kitty cat to be looking to the right, you may have to reverse the design in order to achieve that.  Nothing worse that cutting out your shape, ironing it onto your fabric, and then realizing Kitty is looking in the opposite direction.  Sometimes your pattern gives you a clue, but often not.  These simple star shapes don't have that issue since the design in the same no matter if it is reversed or not.

NOTE:  As some readers have commented, if your applique piece is large (such as my pumpkins), you may want to cut out the center of your Steam A Seam 2 shape to eliminate extra stiffness.  For the tiny shapes I don't think it matters so much.

Cut your paper pattern out, leaving a rough seam allowance all around the edges.

So, then remove that piece of paper that is practically falling off anyway, and iron the side that is now exposed to the WRONG side of your fabric.  This may seem obvious, but if you are a beginner, then God bless you, you might do it wrong the first time.  I did.  Use a pressing cloth.  The fusible stuff is sticky and will really mess up your iron.

Now you are ready to cut out your shape, just like playing paper dolls.

Cut on the lines.

Now you are ready to peel off that second layer of paper that wants to stick better.  It comes off pretty easily but you might need to use your fingernail or the point of your seam ripper to get it started.  What you now have on the wrong side of your applique shape is a sticky surface. 

Position your applique piece on the right side of your background.

Iron it down.  I am not using a pressing cloth in this picture in order for you to see things clearly.  But, when you iron your piece down *use a pressing cloth*.  Promise me. 

Now your little shape is all ready to applique in place.  You are going to use a blanket stitch and sew right over those raw edges, which are all stablilized by the Seam A Seam 2.  It will be a nice stiff surface to sew on.

I match my thread (top and bobbin) to the piece being appliqued.  I use an Open Toe applique foot.  In my case, a  #20 for my Bernina.  The thing about the open toe foot is that you can see just where the needle is going to go down, and therefore fudge it around a bit to get it in exactly the right spot. 

Tools, friends.  Use the right tool for the job and you will be a happy camper.

I set my machine to the Blanket Stitch, which on my Bernina is #25.  Your machine may have a different number, but see the little picture?  It is like a backwards comb.  That is what you want.  The needle goes down on the very outside edge of the applique piece for a couple of stitches, then takes a little bite into the body of the piece.  Isn't it neat and tidy?

Here is a finished star.  Some folks have asked if the star points are tricky and they really aren't.  With that open toe foot, you can totally see where you are, and going slowly, position your needle just right every time. 

Oh, that is another tip.  Go slowly.  And if you are working with a really teensy piece, you may want to shorten (make smaller) your stitch length.

I have not been doing this long, but I tell you, when I look at what I have accomplished, I am really satisfied!  I think applique adds a fabulous touch to a quilt.  If you haven't tried it, do give it a chance.  It is so fun.

 

 

 

Comments

[Barbara Anne]

Excellent tutorial!!! Great photos and your instructions make this seem so very easy and I already have a #20 presser foot!! Now I need Steam-a-Seam 2.

I've hit a snag with my two little scrappy Diamond in a Square Christmas wall hangings (3 blocks each). I put a narrow black first border on and cannot for the life of me find a green fabric that looks good for the outer border. Perhaps I'll have to shop for fabric! Imagine that!

It's 48*F and damp here this morning and may I say Brrrrr?

Hugs!

[Belva]

Every since you started talking about this quilt I go to the Buggy Barn's website daily to look at the kit. I have no real need for a halloween quilt, but it is so darn cute. I think it will be going into a shopping cart with my name on it soon. They should give you a commission! I'm guessing they've gotten a lot of web traffic since you started this quilt. I love fabrics you are using. Keep on sharing your progress.

[Betty]

I use a very similar technique. I like to use heat and bond lite and always position my needle to the extreme right so it sits at the edge of the open toe. I agree it is really so much easier than I thought it would be and so much fun.

[Valerie]

That's how I do it too! :) Though sometimes I use a zig zag or another decorative stitch for fun...but be warned, I've accidently used the NO SEW Wonder Under and it's literally, IMPOSSIBLE to sew! LOL* :)

[Sherri]

I use the same materials but cut out the center of the shape so my appliqué isn't as stiff. I learned to do that in a class a few years ago and have really liked the results.

[Linda]

I agree about cutting out the center part of the Steam-a-Seam before ironing it to the fabric, as it makes the fabric very stiff. For a wall hanging it doesn't matter so much, but for a lap or bed quilt, it does matter. For very small applique pieces, though, such as are used in this quilt, it is more optional. I did once ruin a quilt that had large appliques and where I failed to cut out the center part of the Steam-a-Seam. Inelegantly phrased here, but hope it makes sense.

[sillysally]

Oh my gosh, that is so cool! Thanks for your most excellent tutorial on applique.

[Diane]

Great tutorial. I love that Steam a Seam 2. I use the Steam a Seam 2
Lite and it's almost like its not there.

[marie]

I machine applique the exact same way with wonderful results and it got me a blue ribbon in our local county fair. On small wall hanging I even use it for the "quilting" and there is no problem going through the 3 layers. Bernina does a fabulous job.

[Sue Babich]

I also machine applique the same way you do . You just can't go wrong with Steam a Seam 2 . Thanks for the tutorial !

[Robin Chapa]

I'm INSPIRED. I think I can do this!!!! But here is my question..... we use and wash our quilts (as in, one of the twins had a leaky diaper, into the washing machine and dryer it goes-- gentle cycles of course....) so I'm curious about how this method of applique washes? I've always thought that when I attempted it, I'd have to do needle turn, where there is a turned under edge, but your method looks like something I could actually do! I just don't want it fraying in the wash later..... know what I mean? Do you have any input on this?
Thanks,
Robin (welchrobin@hotmail.com)

[Jennifer G]

I went out and bought some Steam-a-Seam 2 last night as part of the last day of Joann's sale (awesome sale and coupons! got four quilting books I had wanted for awhile). I'm going to try this method, and probably cut out the centers because I wasn't sure how stiff it would turn out. I had the same question that Robin had above, regarding the wear and tear on this method. I plan to use and wash my quilts, so I wasn't sure if the fabric would fray after awhile. I know you are still new to applique, but maybe other can comment who have done the same and washed their quilts already.

[Jennifer G]

Oh - and ADORABLE new blog banner! I think this is the first change in banner I have seen since I started following your blog!

[Jean]

Do you cut your background square slightly larger and then square it up? I'm always afraid that doing the applique will draw up the background fabric some.

[AnnieO]

Beautiful job, there, Nicole! I have a bunch of baskets that are applied and ready to go but have been dragging my feet about the machine applique--I know it isn't hard but it is time consuming--though the result is just great!

[Liz]

Way to go Nicole, It looks great! I tried this (different method) on an applique project, and didn't like the results. I might try your approach next! Thanks for the good info.

[lynda]

Your appliques are looking wonderful. Is your No 25 stitch the 3 or 5 step blanket-stitch? My Bernina has both - the 5 step stitch ends up thicker because it does double stitches rather than single (if that makes sense).

[Michele]

Thanks for your applique tips! Your work is wonderful!

[Pam]

I see that you made additions to the blocks. Nice!

[Debbie]

This is how I have been doing applique for years. I love to mix applique and pieced blocks. When I worked night shift, I would take my applique for hand sewing. My quilts have stood up well even the ones to new babies. Thanks for sharing a great method.

[Staci]

LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE!!

I just can' think of another word when I see your blocks!

[Loris Mills]

Thanks for sharing your tips about machine applique. I hope to do more of this and I think your use of the Steam a Seam makes all the difference....have not done this before and can see why it is needed.
p.s. I'm having a giveaway on my blog if you want to read about the new Elm Creek quilters book.

[Paula Stuplich]

Thank you so much for the tutorial. I am a fairly new quilter and I want to try applique. I wondered about which fusiable to use. This has been so very helpful to me.
I love your blog. I am not much for commenting but just had to today.